Cullen: The art of the Christmas tree
December 9, 2010
Mark Cullen
SPECIAL TO THE STAR
The most asked “gardening” question this time of year is, “What is the best Christmas tree?”
It is a great question as not all Christmas trees are created or grown equal and there are new varieties/species offered almost every year. I will get to that in a moment, but first a word in defense of plantation-grown trees.
There are sincere but misguided people out there who will tell you that buying a Christmas tree is bad for the environment. The thinking goes like this: why would you cut a perfectly good tree down in the forest when it could continue to serve a purpose left standing there?
If we cut trees down in the forest for Christmas — trees that otherwise would stand for a long time naturally — I would agree. But the truth is that no respectable retailer in Canada would sell trees that were cut from a natural stand of evergreens. Virtually all of the trees that are available for sale at nurseries, garden centres, retailers, Boy Scouts and church groups are plantation grown.
The truth about the Christmas tree that you buy:
It takes between eight and 10 years to grow a good quality tree. Up to 15 years to grow an exceptional one. Christmas trees are generally grown on marginally productive land to begin with. While growing, they provide valuable protection and a home for a wide variety of wildlife, including birds, deer, rodents and butterflies. Christmas trees sequester carbon and exhale pure, clean oxygen (like all other trees). They reduce soil erosion and filter air borne pollutants. They are not usually fertilized, and the use of pesticides seldom occurs and, when it does, they are used judiciously (Christmas tree growers are not necessarily environmentalists, but the cost of pesticides alone discourages the practice).
Here are the various qualities of the trees that are available:
Canadian Christmas trees: in order of my personal favourites, five star being my favourties and one star a poor choice:
Fraser fir: Tall, straight, wonderful evergreen scent and above average needle retention. A traditional look. Soft needles are easy on the hands. I will put one of these in my home partly because they are easy to set up. Have you ever put up a Christmas tree that had a crooked trunk? It is a test of anyone’s good will and Christmas spirit. Cost for a 7-foot tree is between $45 and $65.
Noble fir: Much like the Fraser Fir but generally thicker and broader. Cost $50 to $90
Balsam: Great needle retention, straight trunk, nice scent. A maritime native. Only downside is the distance between branches is rather generous giving the tree a thinner look than its fir cousins. The lower cost may encourage you to look for this one at your local supplier. Cost $35 to $50.
Scots pine: This was the No. 1 cut tree a generation ago. The greatest advantage of the Scots pine is that it has long needles that are stiff enough to hold up most any tree ornament. It is densely branched, providing an excellent opportunity to load it up with lights and decorations. However, the trunk of the Scots pine is seldom straight and never as straight as that of the aforementioned fir. It has reasonable needle retention, a gentle scent that is most intense when you first bring it into the house and the price is lower than any of the more popular trees. $30 to $45.
White spruce: The very first Christmas tree, legend has it, was cut somewhere in Bavaria about 350 years ago and was likely a spruce of some kind. It has poor needle retention, usually has wide gaps between branches (minimizing the opportunity for decorations and lights) and the scent is moderate. Above all, I steer away from the White Spruce for the fire hazard that results from the dramatic needle drop. If you live in the country and are cutting a spruce down on your own property, be sure not to bring it indoors until about 5 days before Christmas. And take it back outdoors a couple of days after Christmas. That way the needle drop will not cause too much of a problem: like clogging up your vacuum cleaner. Cost is cheap, if you can find them.
How to Take Care of Your Tree
• Look for a tree with a straight trunk — anyone that has tried to put a crooked tree in a stand will tell you the same thing.
• Look for bushiness that suits your space. Get the right height for the room you plan to put it in. You pay for height when you buy a tree — no use cutting off a foot or two!
• Cut about two inches off of the bottom of the trunk the same day that you plan on putting the tree up. This opens up the capillaries in the tree, increasing its ability to take up water.
• Always use a stand that holds water and make sure that you keep it topped up. This, more than anything else, will help the tree hold its needles for the longest time possible.
• Use a tree preservative. I recommend an application of Wilt-Pruf. The liquid concentrates are arguably helpful though I am unsure just how much so.
• When you dispose of your tree, leave it for the municipality to recycle or place it in the garden, stand and all, until spring. It will provide protection for visiting birds. I put mine within 20-feet of bird feeding stations.
Above all, take family and friends out for the tree selection experience and get the Christmas spirit stirred up well ahead of the big day!
Question of the Week
Q: When should I take my amaryllis bulb out of cold storage?
A: Amaryllis bulbs require about 10 weeks in cool, dark and dry storage. After the 10 weeks, repot the bulb in fresh potting soil. Amaryllis bulbs potted this week should have flower buds by Christmas and blooms in the New Year.
Mark Cullen is an expert gardener, author and broadcaster. You can sign up for his free monthly newsletter at www.markcullen.com and watch him on CTV Canada AM every Wednesday at 8:45 a.m. ( www.ctv/canadaam.com). Mark’s latest book, The Canadian Garden Primer, An Organic Approach, is available at Home Hardware and major bookstores.