October 02, 2007
Special to the star
Zucchini; Cucurbita pepo
Beware anyone who grows this virile veggie. Zucchini gardeners are liable to sneak up to your doorstep under the cover of night and leave a couple of monster green protuberances behind.
I confess to doing it once myself, desperate to get rid of overgrown zucchini. (My spouse, force-fed the stuff all summer, refused to touch any more. "It's so tasteless," he grumbled, "even the raccoons don't bother to eat it.")
So why grow zucchini at all?
Well, it's a truly beautiful plant. The huge, greenish-grey pointed leaves, organ-pipe stalks and golden flowers are as dramatic as any expensive tropical houseplant.
And its energy is fascinating to watch. Even in a bone dry summer like this past one, nothing stops zucchini. Those little green sausages just keep on coming.
And when picked young (at about 15 centimetres), zucchini aren't as tasteless as my spouse claims. After much experimentation, I've found the most flavourful kinds are the Romanesco (or Striato) zucchini. These have ridges down their sides, firm, pale yellow flesh and skin that doesn't turn bitter. Vesey's in Prince Edward Island (veseys.com 1-800-363-7333) or Renee's Garden (reneesgarden.com) sell seeds.
I like to split my Romanescos lengthwise and grill them on the barbecue, brushed with olive oil, or make a layered casserole of sautéed zucchini halves, tomatoes, garlic and cheese. Yum.
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