GORD ON GRAPES
Some Ontario wines that really shine
September 15, 2007
Gordon Stimmell
WINE CRITIC
The summer of 2007 was the driest in 50 years in Ontario, with tons of sunny days, so an early harvest was underway at several wineries in the first week of September. Let's hope the drenching rains of the autumnal equinox hold off, as heavy rain can disrupt the harvest and also produce dreaded grey rot, which destroys grapes. Not to mention the water swelling the grapes too much. Fat, water-swollen grapes do not make concentrated wines.
Meanwhile, while we wait a year or so for this 2007 harvest to make it to bottle, Vintages is today offering several amazing Ontario wines at very reasonable prices. If I had to pick one grape variety from our local winemakers that has become stunning, it is riesling. In the 1990s our rieslings from young vines tasted like sour grapefruit.
Now wine lovers get Moroccan clementines, fresh summer peach and even tropical mango accents in the very best local rieslings. All the rieslings hitting shelves today – Henry of Pelham Off-Dry, Thirty Bench, Chateau des Charmes – are delicious. Flat Rock won out by a nose, but it is the most expensive. However, it is divine.
Here are the winners in other varieties as well, viognier, pinot gris, shiraz and chardonnay. These are amazing wines, well worth the price, and they confirm that world-class Ontario wines do not have to cost $40 and up.
PENINSULA RIDGE 2006 VIOGNIER $13.95
Viognier can be too perfumey, but not this stellar white. Classic clover blossom, peach and apple aromas are pleasant, not over the top. The flavours display peach, lavender and lime with a refreshing slightly floral finish.
LCBO # 662601
Food suggestion: A meringue with fresh peach or strawberries.
Rating: 90 / 100
MIKE WEIR ESTATE 2006 PINOT GRIS $14.95Golfer Mike Weir's winery is opening soon, but Creekside is doing great stuff for him now. The nose shows spicy pear, peach and lime accents. The flavours are equally enticing, with smoky citrus, lime and pear lingering nicely.
LCBO # 043364
Food suggestion: Fresh breaded pickerel fillets.
Rating: 89
FLAT ROCK CELLARS 2004 CHARDONNAY $16.95A nicely wooded chardonnay, with roasted nuts, and toasty apple and vanilla aromas. The flavours are full bore, with apricot, lime and a hint of hazelnuts on the finish. Why spend $30 for an oaked chard when this is on tap?
LCBO # 681247
Food suggestion: Smoked quail or roast turkey.
Rating: 89
CREEKSIDE ESTATES 2006 SHIRAZ $15.95An inky hued red, with huge smoky aromas, laden with black cherry, cedar and vanilla notes. The flavours show wood smoke, blackberry, cedar and ripe black plum. An expressive, big red. Amazing value at under $16.
LCBO # 053348
Food suggestion: Steaks over hickory-chip enhanced BBQ coals.
Rating: 90
FLAT ROCK CELLARS NADJA'S VINEYARD 2006 RIESLING $19.95A phenomenal single vineyard riesling. Lovely peach aromas, with lime, apple and floral complexity. The flavours show dry lime, sweet Mandarin tangerine elements. Absolutely delicious, and amazing for under $20.
LCBO # 578625
Food suggestion: Salad with peach or mango slices.
Rating: 91
gstimmell@thestar.ca
Toronto Star