GORD ON GRAPES
Patience will pay off in flavour and aroma
September 1, 2007
Gordon Stimmell
WINE CRITIC
The harvesting squirrels are starting to rain acorns down on my rooftop, so it must be time for fall.
Of course, wines also can be stored away for glory later, up to a point. How long will the wines discussed below, which beat out dozens in today's Vintages release, last if you sock them away?
The Matua is drinking now, but too many quaff N.Z. sauvignon blancs too soon. Stored properly in a cool dark climate, they can last four years or more, owing to their lively acidity, each year subtly changing their flavour and aroma profile.
Few of us discover this, as we eagerly rush to enjoy their zesty freshness.
The Kaiken from Argentina is a malbec that is drinking now or for the next two years. It does develop in cellar, but if you like the taste now, go for it. I found that some premium malbecs I stashed away lost their pretty edge quickly. So be cautious and taste regularly if you buy a few bottles.
The shirazes below are quite different. The Evans & Tate is so glorious now, I would quaff with your first elegant fall dinners, but it will hold fresh fruit for at least three years.
The Pretty Sally is a shiraz that develops in the glass slowly, which is always a solid sign of aging potential, as long as the changes are complex and not downhill.
It could keep four years, easily.
And, finally, the Schonborn is a glory to behold. Sure, it's 1997 but, man, is it hedonistic. Yes, it could last a few more years owing to its sugar content (it's made from late harvested riesling grapes) but this is the white I would sit on the back deck with, and toast the passing of another summer with a close friend or lover.
Go for it. The golden colour almost matches the early falling leaves.
MATUA SHINGLE PEAK 2005 SAUVIGNON BLANC (NEW ZEALAND) $17.95
Bracing aromas of gooseberry, lime and lemon peel with a whiff of passion fruit. The aromas carry the gooseberry and nettles elements forward, with a hint of grapefruit on the finish. Great for the last outside salad days of summer.
LCBO # 32854
Food suggestion: Oysters Rockefeller.
Rating: 90
KAIKEN ULTRA 2005 MALBEC (ARGENTINA) $18.95A big red with loads of power, yet wonderfully balanced fruit and oak stylings. Aromas of black cherry, pencil shavings and vanilla spill into flavours distinguished by cassis or black currants, blackberry and vanilla. Long on the finish.
LCBO # 50849
Food suggestion: Steak au poivre.
Rating: 90
SCHLOSS SCHONBORN RIESLING SPATLESE 1997 (GERMANY) $23.95An amazingly sumptuous survivor, despite its age. Beguiling aromas of honey, beeswax, tangerine and peach are simply seductive. The flavours dish up mature peach, pear and citrus with a hint of petrol on an endless sweet-edged finish.
LCBO # 43349
Food suggestion: Peach flan, key lime pie.
Rating: 91
EVANS & TATE 2003 SHIRAZ (AUSTRALIA) $19.95Totally seductive aromas of minty cassis, blackberry and cola are entrancing. The silky textured flavours show coconut, blackberry, blueberry and mint stylings. Lots of power here, but some refinement, too. A luxuriously lengthy finish.
LCBO # 606905
Food suggestion: Roast leg of lamb with mint sauce.
Rating: 91
PRETTY SALLY ESTATE 2004 SHIRAZ (AUSTRALIA) $29.95A big red, with lots of extract. The first impression of blackberry jam changes as the wine breathes and opens up. Blackberry, black cherry and undertones of raspberry dominate the aromas and flavours with a cherry wood finish.
LCBO #37176
Food suggestion: Char-broiled T-bone steaks.
Rating: 90
Toronto Star